Politics
The reserve (called Comarca) Kuna Yalla is mostly independent but for the National Defence and the National Education Program. They seem very interested in the Panamean politics (for the most educated of them).
On a local basis, daily meetings (called "Congresso") are held everyday to address practical matters: "Should we clean the beach?", "Should we make it compulsory for people to clean their own backyard?"... or more critical ones: "Should we accept to be connected to the national electricity/phone/mobile network?"... or even matters not really part of their responsibilities: "Are we happy with the school teachers work?"
These "Congresso" make this society seems like a true democracy. Indeed, everyone in the village (I mean every Kuna in the village) is consulted on all kinds of matters. The problem is that a large part of the population is extremely conservative (especially women). It means that any attempts to modernize a bit the local society are always rejected. Culture needs to prevail.
Funny facts:
- The congresso is held from sunset to 9-10PM (everyday). During this period of time, the bar of the village is closed. If you want to drink better anticipate...
- They are so conservative that they didn't modernize the toilet system yet. You have one spot for the whole village and its located 10 minutes away from the village (see picture). Remember "Slumdog Millionaire"? ...
- Same for the shower, there is a pipe carrying water around the village, there is a tap in a kind of bathroom... why not make a shower out of it then?... No they decided to fill some buckets with the water. So, to shower you need to do it the old fashion way by pouring water on our head... Fancy !!!!
- We are not sure why, but somehow, it seems they decided to not have animals inside of the village. We were eating a lot of chicken, so they must be somewhere... But not inside the village, running wild...
School System
We met the teachers from the village. Most of them are from other parts of Panama, they don't speak Kuna and they don't understand the local culture.
According to them, kids are not supported at all by their parents. Elder Kunas might be able to help kids but they don't value at all the national education system. For them, local culture is really the priority.
On top of that, kids suffer of malnutrition issues. They only eat fish, rice, plantain banana and coconuts... it is not enough. They suffer of a lack of vitamins and minerals necessary for their concentration.
François: "So what do you think of the army here?"
Ufemia (local teacher): "Well, there are 3 things really. Firstly, it's safer. Secondly, they are educated and open minded. It's more interesting to talk to them than to locals. .... ....."
François: " And third?"
She blushes and doesn't answer for a second.
Ufemia: "I can't really tell you that"
François: "And third: they are cute?"
The 2 women laugh
Ufemia: "No, no, really, that's not that!"
The militaries
As explained in the previous post, this village is protected by the Panamean army. This army is making sure that the FARCs (Those famous terrorists from Colombia who kidnapded Ingrid Betancourt about 7 years ago) don't cross the border of Panama.
Carlos, one of the militaries we met, really wanted to play football with us. He told us when we met him that later on in the afternoon we should meet him on the beach to play football with him and some of his colleagues. What a good idea !!
4PM, we decided to walk to the beach to play football. When we got there, Carlos told us that we needed the approval of his captain first.
We walked together to meet his captain and after a very short introduction, Carlos left and the captain looked at us and said "So?, What do you want?"
Francois: "Well, we were thinking to play football with your guys if it was possible?"
The Captain: "Humpffs!!!!"
We briefly looked back at Carlos who was 10 meters away trying to understand the result of the conversation like a child.
The Captain: "You see, after some time in the jungle, many of my guys are injured and I can't allow to lose anybody else. I'm sorry. But you can ask the young Kunas if you want to play."
François: "Oh, ok, of course, we understand. Thanks for your time !!"
No need to say that Carlos was ... disappointed...
The Kuna women
Kuna women are very conservatives, we said already. They were those colourful outfit wherever they go (They start wearing those when they become women... if you see what I am talking about....).
They are very powerful, when men only partially attend congressos, they attend most of them and make sure to be heard.
They manage all the money matters, you won't see a man in the only shop of the village. Women manage it and make sure that foreigners pay double anything they buy. This way they make sure that foreigners won't stay, and they make money for the village.... Indeed that's the funny thing about this culture. They are very conservative and want to live as they always did. But in the same time they understood very well what capitalism is all about. As soon as they can make extra money... They do !!!
It was one of those unique experiences
As I was walking to the loo (meaning walking 10 min...), I met many Kuna women working the coconuts field and, naturally, I greeted them. To my surprise, most of them didn't even reply to my surprise but they produced a guttural sound in response to my shy "Buenas!".
It kinda goes like this: "hum huuuum" (the first "hum" being higher pitch than the other).
The recent translation from the expert says that it means:
"hooo, you are very handsome and we are ready to give your family 1 000 coconuts to marry our daughter".
They are 10% sure of this translation.
Beautiful Francois!
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